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I made this cane building demonstration to show that a large cane could be built quickly -- with no resting periods -- and done successfully.   I do NOT believe that resting canes is beneficial  (I am in the minority with this belief).  The longer clay sits around the more it loses its conditioning and warmth.   Cold unconditioned clay is harder to move (reduce) than is warm conditioned clay.  So, when Iím caning, I move as quickly as I can! Everyone builds and reduces clay differently.  Do what works for you!
Since I don't have a stop watch, I used a timer instead.  The clay has already been mixed (50/50 blend of S3 and Fimo Trans) and prepped.  Start time is 4 hours.
A solid log of white clay.  Hopefully, no explanation is needed!
Here I used gold clay for the the veins and the outliine.
This is gonna be a medium sized-cane.  So far, the petal weighs in at about 25 oz (about 1.5 lbs).
Once I've built the cane (or cane part), I get right on with reduction!  Since I want this flower to have 8 petals, I need to reduce this sucker down by a factor of eight.  On all larger canes, I start the reduction process sitting down.  I not only use my arms but my legs too!  A cane of this size needs quite a bit of pressure applied to it and if I didn't use my leg muscles to help, I'm sure my wrists would be shot by now!  Also, I usually wear shorts to keep the clay as clean as possible.
I try for a nice uniform reduction.  No barbell.  
As the cane thins out, I use my legs less and less.  Notice the position of my hands.  I'm applying pressure to 3 points in a triangle formation around the cane: the base of both palms and where my fingers overlap.  Squeeze, squeeze, squeeze!! 
Once a cane gets to be about 20 inches, I'm ready to cut it in half.
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